Have you ever found yourself in a position of commitment to something before you're really ready? Many times that's how I actually get things done...by the verbal commitment and then following with the action. That's where this idea and project developed. I made the commitment of "sure, I can come up with something unique" and then the deadline came. So here it is - directions on how to insert a zipper with your embroidery machine. These instructions are intended for use on any project from a pillow cover, skirt, pant or top zipper, maybe a purse or even a pocket. Use your imagination. If you're a seasoned sewer, you may find the tradition methods better work for you, but if traditional methods have left you baffled...give this a try - it may be your new regular zipper insertion method. The instructions are below - to purchase the downloadable embroidery file go to www.beccaberry.com and enter "zipper" in the search.
In the Hoop zipper Instructions – Centered Zipper
- Test on scrap fabric first and read through all directions before starting
- Increase needle tension to 4.0-4.6. Most embroidery machines set the needle tension much lower in embroidery mode. We want the equivalent to a regular seam – not an embroidery seam.
- Best results are obtained using a zipper foot. Depending on the style of your embroidery foot, this may work as well, but the needle must get close to the zipper teeth and some embroidery feet prevent this.
- Relax and have some fun with this.
First, sew the garment seam together that will contain the zipper. With right sides together (RST) start at the bottom of the garment seam with a normal stitch length of 2.0 – 2.5. Stop with needle down when you get to the point that marks the bottom of the zipper and change your stitch length to a basting stitch – more around 5 or 6, continue stitching to the top, taking a couple back stitches to secure the seam. Press seam open.
Hoop Floriani Wet N Gone Tacky, paper side up in the hoop size required for the zipper size. The 7” zipper will need a hoop at least 150mmx240mm in size. The 9” and 11” zippers need at least 280mm length hoop. Score the paper with a pin to peel off the paper revealing the “sticky” stabilizer.
Insert the hoop into the machine and load the design. Increase the needle tension to 4.0 to 4.6. Stitch Color 1 directly onto the stabilizer. This is the placement guide line.
Remove hoop from machine. With zipper closed, position the zipper tape so that the bottom zipper stop is even with the zipper stop line. This is VERY critical. If the placement isn’t correct, the horizontal topstitch may hit the zipper stop causing an error on your machine or you may break a needle.
Note: You may use a longer zipper tape that extends beyond the top placement line. If you do, move the zipper pull toward the top to stay out of the way when stitching. Make sure the zipper tape is well adhered to the stabilizer.
Place the garment seam over the zipper aligning the seam exactly over the zipper teeth and the top edge of the garment should align with the top placement line. Gently press the garment into the stabilizer to hold it firmly in place.
With the zipper foot in the far right position (body of zipper foot to the right of the needle shank), stitch Color 2. This forms the top stitch going down the right side first, then across the bottom.
When the machine stops, move the zipper foot to the far left position (body of foot to left of the needle shank) and stitch color 3, which goes back up the left side.
Remove the garment from the hoop and cut the zipper out of the stabilizer. When the garment is washed the stabilizer dissolves completely leaving you with a perfectly inserted zipper!